Permanence

What is permanent? Nothing in this world is really totally permanent, but are there some things or some places that are more permanent than others? Does our concept of permanence affect how we live?

We woke up to the rumble of tracks. Looking through our slated kitchen window we saw a pair of 320 Cat excavators moving along the river bank behind our garden. We heard rumors that a second road was to be constructed along the river bank, but had no way of knowing when. Hurrying out to the garden hoping against the destruction of our corn crop, Moringa seedlings and fence, we watched as the excavators efficiently leveled the river bank and uprooted trees and bamboo. Villagers moved fences and chicken coops out of the way of the dirt movers.

Our Garden...almost gone!

Our garden was spared…at least at this pass. Neighbor’s land and gardens weren’t as lucky. Many lost fruit trees, chicken yards, bamboo groves, land; a second road in the name of progress.

We were shocked not so much at the sudden change of the landscape…but more by the fact that in the name of progress something that many may consider ‘theirs’ or ‘permanent’ is not so. Our perspective is notably western and so we really can’t comment on what our neighbors felt, but that hasn’t stopped us from examining our own thoughts on the matter.

Our New "Cliff"

In the past we may have glimpsed insight into villager’s ideas of ‘permanence’ or ‘ownership’ of land and resources. MCC has held village trainings trying to encourage communities to develop conservation plans for their forests so that harvesting Non-Timber Forest Products remains sustainable for years to come. These trainings have had limited success.

Playing on the New "Road"

We wonder if this response is tied to an understanding of permanence…an understanding of ownership. Why should I harvest sustainably if there is no guarantee that the forest will be there in years to come? Why should I care for land that may not be mine? What benefit is it to me? Same is the thought process of renters of cars and homes who care little for the leased item save for a security deposit. It may be a sad insight into the human condition; ‘If it’s not mine why should I care?’

The New Road Along the River

On the flip side I am struck by some of the responses of our neighbors to the change at the river. One neighbor commented to me, “Isn’t it beautiful?” I suppose development is beautiful to many…and maybe in the end it will be a nice road. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, right? Our landlord shared that he is happy with the change…and mentioned plans for anther shop by the new road (precisely where our garden is). While I was personally saddened by both comments I realized that my perspective considers nature beautiful and holds land as something to be cared for and nurtured. So putting those feelings aside I tried to look on the positive side. It certainly is a challenge to live as a good steward caring for and cultivating the world around me that is not in any way permanent.

What can I learn from this? Maybe we in the West hold onto things too tightly? After all nothing in this world is permanent.

“Heaven and earth will pass away, but my words will never pass away.” Matthew 24:35

Faces of Laos

We have taken many pictures of faces during our time in Laos. The following slideshow displays some of those portraits...enjoy!

1st Year...already?!

Last week Moriah turned 1. Whether or not she was completely aware of the fact...we aren't sure. But we tried to make the day special anyway. Some gifts and cards in the morning before breakfast started the day off...then it progressed into our normal work/office routine, where Moriah plays in the morning with her sitter, Gai. Plans for the afternoon included eating cake with our landlord's family...until we realized that another 1st birthday party was planned.

Apple Carrot Cake (She didn't touch the candle)

Enjoying Birthday Blocks

Earlier last week Jeffrey received an invitation at work. Assuming that it was just another wedding invitation (it is wedding season are there are invites almost once a week), left it on his desk, not really wanted to go to a wedding on Moriah's birthday evening. As it turned out the invitation was not to a wedding...but to a birthday party for Fa. When Kaarina and Jeffrey realized this, Jeffrey retrieved the invitation and sure enough it was a first birthday party of a girl born on the same day as Moriah.

In Laos, birthdays are not celebrated and hardly even mentioned...with the exception of first birthdays. We were exposed to this first birthday tradition in Vientiane, but have not seen it practiced in Tha Thom, until now. Fa's party started a 7pm...(Moriah's bedtime), but hey, what good is a birthday if you can't enjoy the whole day right? We arrived bearing the invitation envelop, returning it with cash (customary for both weddings and 1st birthdays). The whole side-street was blocked off with tents and tables full of food. This was bigger than some weddings we attended! We progressed to the family's home, buried behind the tents, tables and the stack of speakers blaring standard party tunes.

Fa and Moriah

A crowd of kids filled the living room around a heavily frosted cake brought all the way from Vientiane for the occasion. The lights were turned out and candles were lit and extinguished after a very rough version of "Happy Birthday" sung Lao style (slower, with out the "dear 'Fa'" part, and birthday pronounced, "Burr-day"). Cake was distributed. Moriah tasted a little, but was far more intrigued by poking the red cherry embedded in the frosting, than with eating. Moriah's highlight of the evening was getting pushed around the house on a toddlers scooter with Fa.

Singing Happy Burr-day

The rest of the party was adult-oriented, with traditional Lao party food of meat, soup, sticky rice,  spicy dipping sauce and beer. We left before the dancing started with the help of a few big yawns from Moriah. The unexpected 1st birthday party had certainly worn her out!

Auspicious Festivities

A celebration overtook the streets of Tha Thom during Sunday and Monday. Being that our home is fairly central in town and directly across from the temple we had a front-row seat to the happenings. Apparently this Sunday's full moon was an auspicious one and festivals and parties were held in other parts of Laos too. In part, yesterday's celebration was a fund raiser for the temple. They have been constructing a entrance for the past year, but recently construction has halted.

Toy Vendors

Unfinished Temple Entrance

Part of the privilege of having a home across from the temple is that when parties like these happen, we get to enjoy a late night of music. The fact that we aren't entirely fond of loud music stretching into the wee hours of the morning is an understatement. Since having Moriah we place great value on sleep. This festival would also be the first major test of Moriah's sleeping stamina.

Vendor's Tent in our Driveway (Good thing we only have bikes)

Balloon/Dart Game

As sporadic fireworks lit up the sky adding to the musical cacophony with swooshes and bangs, we cringed...but Moriah slept on. Our anxiety was most certainly in vain since both nights she slept like a baby. We are very thankful that she is living up to that saying!

Toys and CDs

Clothes etc.

Lao festivals certainly have a standard style. Booths spring up along the roadside during days prior, selling all sorts of wares. Clothes, shoes, dishes, cookware etc. The toy, fair games and bootlegged cd/dvd shops popped up later. Festival food stands boast delicious treats by wafting their salivating aromas into the air. Sweetened popcorn, eggs on-a-stick, ice cream, grilled chicken feet, duck, dog, pork and other processed meats are all displayed for sale.

Party Area

There is most always a main party area at festivals. The one in Tha Thom is at the town meeting hall next to the temple. Large speaker systems are rigged up. Chairs and tables are arranged to accommodate the party crowd. By 8-9pm the party is usually in full swing.

Kaarina and Moriah Enjoying the Evening

We all enjoyed the festivities at earlier hours and ate a healthy dose of popcorn, grilled duck with rice noodles and ice cream for dinner.

Change You Can Taste

Remember my first experience at the Tha Thom morning market? I documented the dimly lit, early morning, culturally awkward adventure in an earlier blog post.

But now, newly developed in our little town is a market with vendors open all day long. In some ways it feels like a 'Super Store' has come to town. The options still aren't huge, by any means, and yes, much of the produce is damaged after the long bumpy trip, but we are so thankful to be able to walk down the road and buy what we need at any time of the day: cucumbers, tomatoes,.. etc. Even fish and cleaned chickens!

Bustling Day Market

Development has it's pro's and con's in every circumstance, but improved transportation, increased population, higher demand, increased volume of travelers, dam construction and workers, all have brought the need for more food, available all the time. We are enjoying the new flavor and convenience this change has brought to our lives.

To Cambodia and Back Again

To catch up from our blogging negligence here is a quick slide show of our time spent in Cambodia over New Years. We traveled to visit the historic ruins of Angkor Wat in Siem Reap. It was certainly a wonder to see the massive stones of a long lost civilization embraced by jungle. If it weren't for the crowds of other tourists it wasn't hard to imagine that we were exploring a lost world in some story book adventure. The following is a sampling of the expedition.

Sandy Fingers and Toes

Moriah enjoys walking around the yard holding on to mommy and daddy's hands. She also loves to sit down at any point and play in the dirt or with anything else that might happen to be on the ground. Our yard is certainly not like a typical North American yard and thus is not grass covered, manicured or even remotely clean. The grass in our yard is patchy...mostly weeds, readily manured by passing flocks of chickens, ducks, cows, pigs and numerous other animals; garbage also frequently accumulates in various locations. These are some undesirable joys of close communal living. Needless to say, the places Moriah chooses to sit are neither clean or appropriate for little hands and feet.

Over the weekend we decided that it was time to create an out-door play area for Moriah. After some thought we came up with a simple solution. This took the form of a fenced-in sandbox under our home. It is the perfect location as it is shaded, has lots of sand and will be a cool place to hang out in the hot season. Soon after daddy constructed the sandbox frame and rigged up a simple fence, Moriah and our landlords two daughters were happily playing together in an animal-free paradise.

Fairly Cleanish Sand

The neighborhood kids have enjoyed the sandbox more than Moriah so far! We frequently come home from work to a small crowd under our home. Sand has always been under our home...it is strange that simply sectioning off an area and calling it special makes it an oasis for play.

"Come and Play with Me!"