Last Days in Laos

Tomorrow we head to the airport, board a waiting plane and leave this country that we have called home for the last three years. The reality of this has certainly not yet set in even as we pack and re-pack bags, have farewell meals, finish and handover work and make last minute purchases. We are certainly looking forward to jumping into a new chapter in our lives, but as always change brings letting go, goodbyes and some tears.

Farewell Photo with Kai, Moriah's Sitter

Co-workers in Tha Thom

A Gift of Sticky Rice for the Long Trip

Lao Picnic

Smiles All Around

Delighting in Her First Ice Cream Taste

Farewell Bacci in Vientiane

MCC Babies

Trying out a New Nudle Shop!

This is what Moriah says about the noodles.

Bye-Bye Patuxai

A Family Jump at That Luang

Fun

We left our home in Tha Thom two weeks ago and have been living out of bags at our country rep's home, who has graciously opened her small place to the four of us! While here in Vientiane we have enjoyed many shopping trips (much to Jyoti's delight), many good meals and lots of time savoring the 'lasts.'

This is our last blog entry from Laos. We hope you have enjoyed reading and learning about Laos as much as we have enjoyed experiencing it.

Rice Worms

Laos is known for its strange and bizarre cuisine and so when we mentioned to Jyoti that we would  give her a taste of rice worms for lunch, she wasn't taken aback. Our mention of 'rice worms' implied the sweet Lao snack, "nam wan" or sweet water. The 'rice worms' weren't worms at all, but rather made from brightly colored rice flour, squeezed into a small 'worm' shape. These 'rice worms' swim with tapioca, pumpkin, corn, beans or cantaloupe in a sugary, coconut milk and ice soup. Nam wan is a classic Lao treat on a hot day and has earned from us the nickname "rice worm soup."

"Rice Worm Soup"

Jeffrey purchased two small bags of 'rice worms' to share, which we ate for dessert after lunch. Unbeknownst to us, Jyoti was completely convinced that she was eating real worms. She slowly ate her portion and even took a photo of her soup with her iPhone (to share later on Facebook). She asked, "Are they green before they are cooked?" Kaarina answered that sometimes they are pink too. Jyoti kept saying, "Well its not too bad...just mind over matter! I'll just eat a little more and then you can finish it."

The Never-to-be Facebook Upload

It wasn't until she asked, "Do you chew them or just swallow?" that we began to really think that something was amiss. Jeffrey responded by asking, "Well do you chew gummy bears or gummy worms?" Jyoti answered, "Yeah, but those aren't real worms!"

All at the same time we realized that Jyoti was completely convinced that she had been eating real rice worms! While she didn't eat real worms this time, Jyoti has mastered the psychological part of eating worms.

A Tha Thom Farewell

We were reminded yesterday that our time left in Tha Thom is short! In one week we will load up the project truck and head into the Capital. We find ourselves thinking often , "This may be our last time... going to the market, walking by the river...etc." It is a surreal feeling.

Blessing by Tying Strings

Traditionally, the Lao hold a Bacci ceremony when people arrive and when people leave. (It is also held for other events. Read more about Baccis in our Bacci post.) Yesterday the office held a farewell Bacci for us. Many important people from the District attended, including the first and second district mayors. The event was held at our home and after the ceremony we joined together in a meal of fish soup, fish laap and steamed vegetables.

Certificate from the District Mayor

The Feasting Pavilion

We are blessed to have Jeffrey's sister, Jyoti visiting us during this time. We will all be traveling back to the US together in a few weeks.

 

A Family Photo

A Proud Aunt and an Over Tired (Goofy) Moriah

Arbor Day

June 1st was Arbor Day in Laos. The district celebrated by planting a couple hundred trees on a plot of land set aside for the agriculture department. The festivities involved speeches, snacks and a time when everyone attending could plant a tree. Holes were pre-dug in the field with a tree next to each hole.

The MCC office donated 40 fruit trees and the district also requested 70 Moringa seedlings from us. June is the perfect time of the year to plant trees as the nightly rains make watering unnecessary. We still have just over 100 trees to get rid of before we leave. (The seed must have multiplied or something!)

Front Yard Food

The days for coming home at noon from work, trying to think of a quick meal to whip up are now a thing of the past! It used to be a challenge to create lunch ideas, especially when we come to the end of the week when leftovers become scarce and Moriah is also tired and hungry after a morning with her sitter. Now a restaurant has opened up in our front yard!

Our Personal Restruant

Our landlord rents the lower portion of their home to a couple who make various Lao pork dishes fresh each day. They tend to be spicy and slightly soupy and great eaten with sticky rice or regular white rice.While the food isn't Moriah's favorite, it makes for delicious quick lunch. The shop also sells a Lao treat called 'nam wan' (sweat water), a sweet soup with coconut milk and rice based gummies. The fresh banana fritters they offer are also our favorites!

School Gardens in Tha Thom: Focus on Moringa

Here is a video Jeffrey created, highlighting the 2012-2013 school garden activities for the MCC Tha Thom Food Security and Nutrition Project.

You know it is hot when:

The weather service says it's "38°C, but feels like 49°C given the humidity." (That is 120°F!!)

 

Candle sticks start to bend.

Chickens pant.

When the power goes out at night and the cooling fan ceases, you instantly awake, damp with sweat.

Five showers a day seems normal.

Two to three changes of clothes a day is normal.

Everything wilts.

The slightest breeze is a blessing.

You look with favor on the typically dreaded monsoon season.

A glass of cold water sounds heavenly.

Permanence

What is permanent? Nothing in this world is really totally permanent, but are there some things or some places that are more permanent than others? Does our concept of permanence affect how we live?

We woke up to the rumble of tracks. Looking through our slated kitchen window we saw a pair of 320 Cat excavators moving along the river bank behind our garden. We heard rumors that a second road was to be constructed along the river bank, but had no way of knowing when. Hurrying out to the garden hoping against the destruction of our corn crop, Moringa seedlings and fence, we watched as the excavators efficiently leveled the river bank and uprooted trees and bamboo. Villagers moved fences and chicken coops out of the way of the dirt movers.

Our Garden...almost gone!

Our garden was spared…at least at this pass. Neighbor’s land and gardens weren’t as lucky. Many lost fruit trees, chicken yards, bamboo groves, land; a second road in the name of progress.

We were shocked not so much at the sudden change of the landscape…but more by the fact that in the name of progress something that many may consider ‘theirs’ or ‘permanent’ is not so. Our perspective is notably western and so we really can’t comment on what our neighbors felt, but that hasn’t stopped us from examining our own thoughts on the matter.

Our New "Cliff"

In the past we may have glimpsed insight into villager’s ideas of ‘permanence’ or ‘ownership’ of land and resources. MCC has held village trainings trying to encourage communities to develop conservation plans for their forests so that harvesting Non-Timber Forest Products remains sustainable for years to come. These trainings have had limited success.

Playing on the New "Road"

We wonder if this response is tied to an understanding of permanence…an understanding of ownership. Why should I harvest sustainably if there is no guarantee that the forest will be there in years to come? Why should I care for land that may not be mine? What benefit is it to me? Same is the thought process of renters of cars and homes who care little for the leased item save for a security deposit. It may be a sad insight into the human condition; ‘If it’s not mine why should I care?’

The New Road Along the River

On the flip side I am struck by some of the responses of our neighbors to the change at the river. One neighbor commented to me, “Isn’t it beautiful?” I suppose development is beautiful to many…and maybe in the end it will be a nice road. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, right? Our landlord shared that he is happy with the change…and mentioned plans for anther shop by the new road (precisely where our garden is). While I was personally saddened by both comments I realized that my perspective considers nature beautiful and holds land as something to be cared for and nurtured. So putting those feelings aside I tried to look on the positive side. It certainly is a challenge to live as a good steward caring for and cultivating the world around me that is not in any way permanent.

What can I learn from this? Maybe we in the West hold onto things too tightly? After all nothing in this world is permanent.

“Heaven and earth will pass away, but my words will never pass away.” Matthew 24:35

Faces of Laos

We have taken many pictures of faces during our time in Laos. The following slideshow displays some of those portraits...enjoy!

1st Year...already?!

Last week Moriah turned 1. Whether or not she was completely aware of the fact...we aren't sure. But we tried to make the day special anyway. Some gifts and cards in the morning before breakfast started the day off...then it progressed into our normal work/office routine, where Moriah plays in the morning with her sitter, Gai. Plans for the afternoon included eating cake with our landlord's family...until we realized that another 1st birthday party was planned.

Apple Carrot Cake (She didn't touch the candle)

Enjoying Birthday Blocks

Earlier last week Jeffrey received an invitation at work. Assuming that it was just another wedding invitation (it is wedding season are there are invites almost once a week), left it on his desk, not really wanted to go to a wedding on Moriah's birthday evening. As it turned out the invitation was not to a wedding...but to a birthday party for Fa. When Kaarina and Jeffrey realized this, Jeffrey retrieved the invitation and sure enough it was a first birthday party of a girl born on the same day as Moriah.

In Laos, birthdays are not celebrated and hardly even mentioned...with the exception of first birthdays. We were exposed to this first birthday tradition in Vientiane, but have not seen it practiced in Tha Thom, until now. Fa's party started a 7pm...(Moriah's bedtime), but hey, what good is a birthday if you can't enjoy the whole day right? We arrived bearing the invitation envelop, returning it with cash (customary for both weddings and 1st birthdays). The whole side-street was blocked off with tents and tables full of food. This was bigger than some weddings we attended! We progressed to the family's home, buried behind the tents, tables and the stack of speakers blaring standard party tunes.

Fa and Moriah

A crowd of kids filled the living room around a heavily frosted cake brought all the way from Vientiane for the occasion. The lights were turned out and candles were lit and extinguished after a very rough version of "Happy Birthday" sung Lao style (slower, with out the "dear 'Fa'" part, and birthday pronounced, "Burr-day"). Cake was distributed. Moriah tasted a little, but was far more intrigued by poking the red cherry embedded in the frosting, than with eating. Moriah's highlight of the evening was getting pushed around the house on a toddlers scooter with Fa.

Singing Happy Burr-day

The rest of the party was adult-oriented, with traditional Lao party food of meat, soup, sticky rice,  spicy dipping sauce and beer. We left before the dancing started with the help of a few big yawns from Moriah. The unexpected 1st birthday party had certainly worn her out!

Auspicious Festivities

A celebration overtook the streets of Tha Thom during Sunday and Monday. Being that our home is fairly central in town and directly across from the temple we had a front-row seat to the happenings. Apparently this Sunday's full moon was an auspicious one and festivals and parties were held in other parts of Laos too. In part, yesterday's celebration was a fund raiser for the temple. They have been constructing a entrance for the past year, but recently construction has halted.

Toy Vendors

Unfinished Temple Entrance

Part of the privilege of having a home across from the temple is that when parties like these happen, we get to enjoy a late night of music. The fact that we aren't entirely fond of loud music stretching into the wee hours of the morning is an understatement. Since having Moriah we place great value on sleep. This festival would also be the first major test of Moriah's sleeping stamina.

Vendor's Tent in our Driveway (Good thing we only have bikes)

Balloon/Dart Game

As sporadic fireworks lit up the sky adding to the musical cacophony with swooshes and bangs, we cringed...but Moriah slept on. Our anxiety was most certainly in vain since both nights she slept like a baby. We are very thankful that she is living up to that saying!

Toys and CDs

Clothes etc.

Lao festivals certainly have a standard style. Booths spring up along the roadside during days prior, selling all sorts of wares. Clothes, shoes, dishes, cookware etc. The toy, fair games and bootlegged cd/dvd shops popped up later. Festival food stands boast delicious treats by wafting their salivating aromas into the air. Sweetened popcorn, eggs on-a-stick, ice cream, grilled chicken feet, duck, dog, pork and other processed meats are all displayed for sale.

Party Area

There is most always a main party area at festivals. The one in Tha Thom is at the town meeting hall next to the temple. Large speaker systems are rigged up. Chairs and tables are arranged to accommodate the party crowd. By 8-9pm the party is usually in full swing.

Kaarina and Moriah Enjoying the Evening

We all enjoyed the festivities at earlier hours and ate a healthy dose of popcorn, grilled duck with rice noodles and ice cream for dinner.

Change You Can Taste

Remember my first experience at the Tha Thom morning market? I documented the dimly lit, early morning, culturally awkward adventure in an earlier blog post.

But now, newly developed in our little town is a market with vendors open all day long. In some ways it feels like a 'Super Store' has come to town. The options still aren't huge, by any means, and yes, much of the produce is damaged after the long bumpy trip, but we are so thankful to be able to walk down the road and buy what we need at any time of the day: cucumbers, tomatoes,.. etc. Even fish and cleaned chickens!

Bustling Day Market

Development has it's pro's and con's in every circumstance, but improved transportation, increased population, higher demand, increased volume of travelers, dam construction and workers, all have brought the need for more food, available all the time. We are enjoying the new flavor and convenience this change has brought to our lives.

To Cambodia and Back Again

To catch up from our blogging negligence here is a quick slide show of our time spent in Cambodia over New Years. We traveled to visit the historic ruins of Angkor Wat in Siem Reap. It was certainly a wonder to see the massive stones of a long lost civilization embraced by jungle. If it weren't for the crowds of other tourists it wasn't hard to imagine that we were exploring a lost world in some story book adventure. The following is a sampling of the expedition.

Sandy Fingers and Toes

Moriah enjoys walking around the yard holding on to mommy and daddy's hands. She also loves to sit down at any point and play in the dirt or with anything else that might happen to be on the ground. Our yard is certainly not like a typical North American yard and thus is not grass covered, manicured or even remotely clean. The grass in our yard is patchy...mostly weeds, readily manured by passing flocks of chickens, ducks, cows, pigs and numerous other animals; garbage also frequently accumulates in various locations. These are some undesirable joys of close communal living. Needless to say, the places Moriah chooses to sit are neither clean or appropriate for little hands and feet.

Over the weekend we decided that it was time to create an out-door play area for Moriah. After some thought we came up with a simple solution. This took the form of a fenced-in sandbox under our home. It is the perfect location as it is shaded, has lots of sand and will be a cool place to hang out in the hot season. Soon after daddy constructed the sandbox frame and rigged up a simple fence, Moriah and our landlords two daughters were happily playing together in an animal-free paradise.

Fairly Cleanish Sand

The neighborhood kids have enjoyed the sandbox more than Moriah so far! We frequently come home from work to a small crowd under our home. Sand has always been under our home...it is strange that simply sectioning off an area and calling it special makes it an oasis for play.

"Come and Play with Me!"

Bridge is Finished!

At long last the final bridge to Tha Thom is completed! It is now possible to drive all the way to Vientiane. Of course now there is much, much more traffic buzzing through our little town, but we are happy with the increased produce available. Driving through rivers may be a thing of the past, but journeys are still an adventure. The last time we drove to Vientiane the narrow road was blocked by a electric repair truck unloading electric poles. We sat for over an hour with lines of other cars waiting for the truck to empty. Needless to say we are looking forward to smoother and quicker travels in and out of Tha Thom regardless of river levels. Below is a 360 pan of the new bridge. A year ago we posted a pan at the same location. Click here to see what this area was like in 2011.

Click here for the full screen experience.