Bacci

It is said that you will not be in Laos long before you experience your first bacci and that you will be part of many more during your stay. It held true for us! In our very first week in Vientiane we joined MCC in a farewell bacci for one of the staff returning to the USA. Then three weeks ago we experienced another– a welcome bacci for us and all the new MCC staff (in all there are 5 new service workers and 2 new SALTers)!

A bacci ceremony (pronounced ‘ba-see’) is the traditional way in which Lao people celebrate milestones in life as well as welcome and say farewell to people close to them. During the ceremony people gather together, sitting cross-legged on the floor, as a leader speaks blessings over the special person or persons. Gifts of sticky rice, eggs and sweet treats are presented and dry rice is thrown. My favorite part of the ceremony is at the end, when all everyone gathers together to tie strings on each other’s wrists. While you are tying the string, you take time to speak blessings and good wishes on the person.

While this ceremony has its roots in Buddhism, many non-practicing Buddhists, MCC, and other Christians view this tradition as an important way to connect with the Lao culture and simply a time dedicated to bless the people close to them. As Christians we engaged in this cultural practice by offering simple prayers for each other and asking the Lord to pour out His blessings.

We enjoyed taking part in this tradition and were thrilled that Kristina and Brennan were able to join us for our welcome bacci. They visited us shortly on the last leg of their ‘world adventure.’

Posted By Kaarina

“Bye-bye Bombies”

Before coming to Lao we had heard stories of unexploded bombs in the rural areas and had read some of the countries’ history. Little did we know about the real extent concerning the war which was fought here. Lao is the most bombed nation (tons per person) in the history of the world. 2,093,100 tons of ordinances were dropped on the country during a 9 year period, roughly 1 plane worth of bombs emptied every 8 minutes! In 1962 the US signed the Geneva Agreement, pledging not to engage militarily in Lao. However, through primarily the use of CIA operatives and re-routing bombing missions from Vietnam they continued to heavily bombard Lao. This time, now known as the ‘Secret War,’ has left a deadly legacy of unexploded ordinances (UXO). UXO’s are scattered throughout Laos and because of them 30-60 people die per year.

We have heard countless stories of UXO’s (commonly called ‘bombies’ by nationals) found in rice fields, under homes, high above the ground in bamboo groves and in school playgrounds. Laos with the assistance of other countries continues the clearing process, but it is very slow going. Here in Vientiane we have visited several places that document the stories and history surrounding the ‘secret war’ and the people affected by it. One of the MCC staff members even shared with us his stories and pictures of growing up in Xieng Khouang Province (one of the most heavily bombed provinces). As a child he and his friends used to play with bombies since some are bright yellow, others look similar to pineapples while still others make excellent balls (all very appealing to children). Some will explode immediately and some may never at all. Many people make a living off of salvaging the metal from bombies… that is if they can open them without a detonation. Apparently it is a common sight in the villages to see families using parts of bombies as cooking tripods and in other household application!

"Pineapple" Bombie

 More recently we visited the COPE center (in Vientiane), an organization that has documented many stories and put together an interactive museum concerning the bombie legacy and their efforts to rehabilitate individuals who have lost limbs to explosions.

It is a strange feeling to be in a country that has been so devastated by something my country has caused. It is even stranger still to see and learn firsthand about a history that I was never told by US history books. This was certainly a difficult time in history and it was a privilege to learn from a different perspective. As we are heading to Tha Thom we will encounter people who have been directly affected by this “Secret War.” Despite our past we are eager to work with the Lao people.

Posted by Jeffrey (*Statistics from Lonely Planet, “Laos”*)

Paasaa Lao

Our days are now quite full as we dive into the wonderful world of ‘Paasaa Lao’ (Lao language)! We study together with sixteen other students for three hours a day at Candle Light Language and Vocational Training Center (Called Xieng Tian in paasaa Lao).

Interesting fact: It has been found that many couples will experience marriage turmoil while learning a new language together. Due to this fact, Jeffrey and I are divided up into separate classes – We’ve been good up to this point! :-)

Our language learning is divided into two separate classes: Conversational Lao and Reading/Writing. After a week and half of class, we can now greet one another, form and ask simple questions, name common objects/food, barter and order food. We found the Lao alphabet to be a bit overwhelming at the beginning, but after learning 27 consonants and 28 vowels (as well as a number of mixed vowels and consonant combinations) we’re starting to have a handle on reading and writing. We now like to sit down with our children’s alphabet book, try sound out the words and understand what we’re saying (the pictures are a big help).

The Lao Consonants

Laughter has been our good companion these days, and we’re trying to keep good attitudes as we learn a language which is so…well, foreign! I enjoy joining the women in our home while they make dinner. It’s been a good chance to spend time with them, learn food items as well as some tips on cooking Lao style! I’m excited to try my hand at it when we reach Tha Thom. Jeffrey has made friends with one of the young boys in our home. While watching cartoons together yesterday – Jeffrey was picking up some new words, and I think the young boy was getting a kick out watching Jeffrey! I would also like to share Jeffrey’s new favorite Lao joke with you: Our family owns a beautiful mama cat which we both enjoy hanging out with. So if you talk with him one of these days he may just ask you, “Jao vao paasaa Meow?” Translation, “Do you speak cat language?’”

Posted by Kaarina

Getting Around Town

The buzz of two-cycle motorbike engines filled the MCC office compound this week as all five of us new service workers began practicing. Behind the office is a large warehouse with a sheltered open-air parking area, ideal for learning how to ride. The 100cc Honda’s would technically be considered scooters in the US, but here in Lao they are synonymous with motorcycles. Kaarina was terrified to drive on the roads and thus slightly reluctant to get her license, but after riding around a few laps she has warmed up to the idea and is progressing very well! She and the other four new Service Workers will take the Lao test once their permanent work visas are in their hands and they feel ready. The test consists of a series of maneuvering skills in a roughly 3m by 9m rectangle. First, you drive two circuits around the perimeter, then ride two figure eights and finally travel one time around one of the smaller circles that make up the ‘eight.’ A candidate has two attempts without putting a foot down or crossing the outer or inner boundaries. In our chalk-drawn practice space Kaarina, after only three days, putts around the circuit in relative control and comfort! Since I already obtained a motorcycle license in the US, I needed to perform the Lao test (in our chalk rectangle) for one of the MCC Staff instead of going to the official testing facility. After some practice I passed the MCC bar today! Driving on the roads is a different story! I am learning to drive the Lao way, mainly driving with the flow and learning to know which stop signs are optional. There are many things to watch out for, but the driving is a lot more laid back than what we observed in Vietnam. The highlights for this coming week are moving in with our host family and beginning language classes. Kaarina and I are both excited to be able to ride around the city on our own.

Posted by Jeffrey

Lao is still very Lao

A week after arriving in Laos (the 4th of August) we packed our bags again for a four day excursion to Da Nang, Vietnam to join in the annual South East Asia MCC Retreat. We took a series of two flights before arriving at our destination. The trip began with an unfortunate episode, which turned into a window sheading light onto Lao culture.

A realization came to me just after passing through emigration while standing in front of the metal detectors that I had not put my Leatherman in the checked luggage and it was still on my belt! I ended up leaving the multitool with one of the Lao security officers before proceeding through security. One of the MCC staff helped figure the whole thing out, in Lao of course, and took down the man’s name and phone number. The officer would hang on to my Leatherman until we returned from Vietnam in 4 days. I asked the staff member later what he thought the chances were of finding the officer again and picking the Leatherman up. He smiled and replied, “Lao is still very Lao. Everything will be ok.” Sure enough after a wonderful time in Da Nang, meeting the MCC staff, attending sessions and enjoying the South China Sea we returned to Vientiane to have my Leatherman waiting for us at the airport.

Posted by Jeffrey

Fruit and sand Castles

Here are a few random pictures to share. The first is an example of the wonderful fruit we have been enjoying! The ‘hairy’ things are rambutans, similar to lychees. The purple ones with white flesh are mangosteens. They are juicy and delicious but hard to judge good fruit by the outside. Finally the pummelo is similar to grapefruit except that it is sweet, not sour, and is not as juicy.

The sand castle is something we built on one of our free afternoons in Da Nang Vietnam at the MCC retreat.

The adventure of the Sinh!

On Friday (July 30th) we experienced our first taste of a Lao market. Weaving our way through small shops and vendors we purchased a few essential items: raincoats, Lao/English dictionary and finally the search for my first sinh!

A sinh (pronounced ‘sin’) is the traditional skirt worn by Lao women. It is quite simple in design, but proves to be more difficult to explain in words so I will not attempt it here.

Our adventure begins in the narrow, crowded, dimly lit Lao market. The first step in acquiring a sinh is to choose and purchase a piece of cloth (measuring about 2 yards). This can be quite a task because every small shop has choices in every color under the sun. We dug through piles of fabric, some with intricate embroidery or woven patterns as well as your choice in cotton, silk or a mix of the two. My choice was to find a simple cotton fabric, and I did find one at a great deal, 30,000 kip ($3.60)!

After you have chosen your fabric, the next step is to head to your tailor to be measured. What a store! The walls are lined with sinh after sinh on hangers, and women working at tables in the center of the room sewing. It took the seamstress about 30 seconds to measure me up, and then said to come back in three days to pick it up. The picture tells the rest!

I absolutely love my new sinh! It cost only 45,000 kip (Under $5.00), is cool and comfortable. I think it will be my new favorite piece of clothing, and I’m wondering when I can get out to the market to start the process all over again!

Posted by Kaarina